How To Change Master Cylinder On Volvo Semi Truck

Any experience would exist helpful! Petty long post but has the details.
2000 volvo, Rockwell, Eaton clutch, hydraulic. This volition sound very naive, but I've went years not knowing this was a hydraulic assist clutch on the oem side. Information technology's got a Main cylinder & slave cylinder! I didn't know any large trucks had hydraulic clutchs?? I always wondered why there was a reservoir asking for dot-4 brake fluid, didn't inquire no questions and kept information technology topped of regardless.

Well I manually adjusted the clutch internally in February, With a 1/two in fork measurement tool because I was starting to grind a bit shifting from neutral to low gears. That adjustment did great. Yesterday I offset getting the grinding'ness again. I hop under the truck measure out the gap with a 1/2 extension since my other tool is at home, and the gap betwixt the brake and throw out still seems good at 1/ii in.

Then then I wondered virtually clutch linkage. After a couple hours of inquiry I discover literature and notice out, I have a hydraulic arrangement. Then, no one.5in-2in free play and 1-1.five clutch brake. It's a different tolerance organization. My costless play is very little. Just I guess in spec.

I got a brand new Eaton EZ pedal in the truck with me I bought on auction in town, merely don't want to modify it unless it admittedly necessary.********** What in the globe is going on if I got 1/2 clearance already? I see some extra grease around there, just of class the flight J I'm at 2night sells no BRAKE CLEANER?? And I used mine upward and hadn't restocked. Probably could get some shop towel in at that place at least. But I idea near getting that grease off to help the end brake. And I plant literature on adjusting the hydraulic "linkage" I might attempt to brand a measuring tool tomorrow and adjust information technology... or is my clutch just toast? Thanks to the trucking elders and the knowers

Last edited: Apr 14, 2019
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I hate hydraulic clutches,definitely a hurting in the human knee. Annihilation to make money on parts.I hope they go the way of the air clutch, another brilliant idea(at to the lowest degree the air clutch didn't hurt you're knee joint, but could definitely snap you're cervix). Does information technology work better when you pump it a few times?
I don't know. I topped of the fluid before, it was a tid' chip depression. And I pumped the clutch pedal down well-nigh 10 times, just hadn't powered the truck dorsum on to test information technology.
I recollect they're asking virtually $200 for the master cylinder, don't know nigh the slave. Then got to bleed it out correct with a pump of some kind I estimate. But still ameliorate than a clutch task if that's the case. I did commencement to feel a little resistance/sticking since yesterday, not when I press the pedal downwardly, but when I let it return.

Concluding edited: April 14, 2019
I was driving an international with a hydraulic clutch and where they had the reservoir mounted was under the plastic rain gutter nether the hood. That was cracked and the reservoir was hanging at an angle,assuasive information technology to suck air. It made it better after being repaired, simply I never could go used to that clutch. I used it as lilliputian as possible, the clutch that is.
Ten4. when that happened, the cracked reservoir, what was the symptom? Just wondering if maybe it wouldn't let you shift from neutral
News to me. Never touched a driblet of DOT Brake fluid around a large rig in my life time.

HopeOverMope Thanks this.
The clutch wouldn't disengage completely and the clutch brake wasn't stopping the trans making it difficult to get it in gear. I had to pump it a few times to get it in gear and man, the spring in the
chief was hard to push in(my knees aren't as proficient equally they used to be).

HopeOverMope Thanks this.
The clutch brake is designed to operate with grease from the throw out begetting. The grease keeps the restriction cool and keeps the friction material from wearing out prematurely, particularly with a hydraulic or air assisted clutch linkage.
Accept a buddy depress the clutch to full to check travel or stroke to make certain the linkage is going full travel. Place a piece of newspaper or post-information technology notation between the begetting and brake. At full depress the paper should not be able to be pulled out. This will tell you yous have proper brake squeeze. Now you lot have a direction to get.

HopeOverMope Thank you this.
So, later on doing the paper examination you mentioned, and if it holds the paper... that will tell me that the clutch is in adjustment? Significant the clutch is bad? Or....?
I haven't found anyone still to help me printing the clutch down. I'1000 over the road at the moment. And then I haven't done the newspaper test or watched the linkage. I practise know where everything is at present, the principal & slave cylinder, & the hydraulic line.
So when yous check the squeeze with the paper make sure you cannot rotate the clutch brake on the input shaft. Information technology is splined and if it rotates freely with engine off information technology is broken. Fore and aft motion with the clutch pedal released is oK, just no rotation on the input shaft.
If the brake is good and you cant pull out the newspaper on a full pedal depress.....this means everything is in adjustment and the brake should stop the input shaft to permit gear engagement with nada grinding at a cease.

If the issues persists it is most likely a dislodged dampening spring in a clutch disc intermittently causing clutch drag or not releasing fully. This can come and go with every pedal press in the beginning but volition get worse or fail to release completely never to release again.